![]() meaning positioning the top end of the valve and pipe so that the top half is in my target zone. Thoughts? I guess it's just a question of mounting the overflow "u" at a level that's on the low side of my target. The only question is whether the one way valve will be "easy" enough on the push side for the overfill to work? What I mean is when the pool overflows the water will clearly rise to crest in the pipe, but will there be enough pressure from gravity alone to push through it? As I remember the spring in those valves is intentionally light (since suction and/or pressure from the other side handles the "sealing" needs), but until the overflow fills ("true" overflow) there won't be a lot of pressure on the valve door. planning to replace the manual stuff with a wireless system at some point in the future, which is one reason this overflow is critical. ![]() irrigation main is hooked into pad intake side, with two ball valves to control filling. ![]() I've already got two on the pad based filler system I set-up. Yeah, I can probably solve that pretty easily with a one way valve. I hadn't really thought about the suction component of the overflow. Be careful to install a syphon break if needed or the overflow could turn into a syphon and drain the pool. In the rainy season the last return is an overflow and the rest of the year it's just a return. I was able to tap into the return line just before the last return and using a series of valves can now use the last return to the pool as an overflow or just a return. My pool has three returns and I have access to my return line from under the pool deck. It always needed draining during a storm and our only method was draining to waste and playing with power during a rain event is never a good idea.Īdding an overflow to an existing skimmer box is probably the best solution but I couldn't tap into mine and I thought it was to hard to core drill my concrete pool. ![]() But that's exactly what I did, I had the same problem with lots of rain and no overflow. I don't think cutting in to a suction or return line is a good idea for an overflow unless it's for a valve to pump water to waste but that requires manual operation. I'm assuming gravity and suction will prevent water from pushing through the overflow when the pump is on or off?Ģ) Is there a best place to put the overflow other than just before pump?ģ) Optimal pipe size? Something else I'm missing? ![]() I'll probably use a laser level to make sure I get the level right, and use a 3/4" pipe (I don't think I'll ever have enough flow to need anything bigger, but maybe I'll just use 1").ġ) Do I need to worry about pressure or closing off the overflow in some way? Not sure how I would do this given the fact that it has to be gravity driven. Since my pool sits above above the pad (about 3'?), I'm thinking I just need to cut into the return line before the pump and install a "U" that goes up, turns at the appropriate level (just below the coping), and then take it back down and tie it into the massive drain system I installed with the pool (6" pipe down to the street). The plan is to put the overflow at the pad. Looking to get some sage advice from folks on my plan. So, when I put in my pool the PB never brought up the idea of an overflow system, and after some crazy rains here in Austin (and some overflow situations) I'm thinking of putting in an overflow valve. ![]()
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